Backpacking Half Dome in the Off-Season, Yosemite National Park
Trip at a Glance
| Distance | 15 miles |
| Elevation Gain | 5,000 feet |
| Elevation Range | 4,000 - 8,800 feet |
| Length | 2 days |
| Permit | Happy Isles to Little Yosemite Valley |
| Trailhead | Happy Isles Loop Rd |
| Points of Interest | Vernal Falls, Nevada Falls, Half Dome |
| Type | Out and back |
| Date of Report | May 10 - 11, 2019 |
The Route
Happy Isles to Half Dome map and itinerary (view in AllTrails)
Trip Overview
We backpacked Half Dome in May 2019 from the Happy Isles trailhead with an overnight in Little Yosemite Valley.
Half Dome is a granite monolith perched prominently above Yosemite Valley. The striking dome-shaped feature looks like its name would imply, a dome that has been sliced through its middle. It’s Yosemite’s most sought-after hike to conquer and its fame even transcends the world of hiking enthusiasts, making cameos in Apple wallpapers. The strenuous hike gains 4500 ft from the bottom of Yosemite Valley and ends in the infamous cables section, a 45-60 degree climb up the granite dome. When you are finally standing on the top of Half Dome, the sweeping views up and down Yosemite Valley are unparalleled. The dramatic, vertical drop-offs to the valley floor are sweaty-palms inducing for even the most fearless hikers.
If you have the time, I highly recommend making Half Dome an overnight trip rather than a day hike from Yosemite Valley. Camping at Little Yosemite Valley the first night divides the ascent in half in terms of vertical gain. This way, you can take your time to enjoy the iconic Mist Trail which passes 2 of Yosemite’s signature waterfalls, Vernal and Nevada Falls. You also beat the crowds hiking all the way from the valley and are the earliest on the cables the next morning.
Panorama from the top of Half Dome. From left to right, you can see all the way from Yosemite Valley to Cloud’s Rest.
Hiking Half Dome During Permit Season
The Half Dome cables are up each year from around Memorial Day to Labor Day. During this period, Half Dome permits are required (yes, permits for a day hike). A maximum of 300 permits each day, 225 for day hikers and 75 for backpackers, are distributed by preseason and daily lotteries. This system helps prevent dangerous overcrowding on the cables, but it makes the Half Dome hike a kind of exclusive experience.
Read more about Half Dome permits when the cables are up for day hikers and for backpackers at nps.gov.
Hiking Half Dome During Off Season
Permits are not required when the cables are down, but a little known fact is that you can still climb Half Dome. The poles that usually prop the cables up as handrails are removed and the cables are left lying on the surface of Half Dome. Using a few basic climbing knots and techniques, you can climb Half Dome very safely while the cables are down.
I crossed Half Dome off my bucket list on a beautiful clear day in mid-May without the headache of a permit lottery or crowds, and with the added thrill of a technical climb.
Permits
Although permits are not required for Half Dome, wilderness permits are still required for backpacking. Trailhead quotas (see nps.gov) are in effect year-round but are only reservable between April and November. The permit for this trip is Happy Isles to Little Yosemite Valley and the daily quota is 30, with 12 for walk-ups and 18 reservable. Walk-up spots open the day before your trip starting at 11 AM. If you don’t have a reservation and the walk-up spots are filled before you arrive, you will not be able to backpack this trail.
Climbing Gear
Disclaimer: This is not intended to be a complete guide on how to climb the cables off-season. This is just how we did it. We saw people with much more minimal gear or with no safety gear at all. What you choose should be based on your physical ability and experience and I strongly discourage attempting this climb without full confidence in your system.
Looking up
Passing between cable sections on the way down
Each person had 2 prusik loops, 2 climbing carabiners, a harness, and gloves to grip the cable. Microspikes are also helpful (or essential, depending on the volume of snow) for early season trips.
We tied in to the cable with both prusiks and slid the prusiks along the cable as we climbed. The cables are bolted to the ground in several sections so you have to retie your prusiks to pass between them. With 2 prusiks, you can tie in to the next section before untying from the previous section so that you are always tied in.
Holding the heavy cables and pulling ourselves up required a good amount of upper body endurance. You can lean back and the prusik knots will lock on the cables so you can rest. We found this invaluable as the wooden planks that usually serve as footholds are also removed when the cables come down.
Confidence is key. I personally never felt in danger of slipping. The prusiks were good for peace of mind and for leaning back on, but falling and shock loading your prusiks should only be an emergency last resort.
Parking
We parked on Happy Isle Loop Rd between Yosemite Valley Trailhead Parking and Curry Village and walked to the trailhead. The road is closed to cars beyond Yosemite Valley Trailhead Parking which is the closest trailhead parking for Happy Isles. You can also park at Curry Village or Yosemite Village and take the free park shuttle to the trailhead.
Day 1: Happy Isles to Little Yosemite Valley
The Yosemite Wilderness Center opens at 8 AM. We got there at 6 AM. Eleven out of 12 walk-up spots were still left when I called the day before, but we weren’t taking any chances. Our attempt to backpack Half Dome a few weeks prior had been thwarted because the daily trailhead quota was filled by the time we arrived at 11 AM the day of our trip.
Yosemite Valley was quiet and peaceful in the early morning without the bustle of daytime tourists. We ate cold bagels and huddled outside the Wilderness Center for a bit before launching into planks and push-ups to keep ourselves warm. No other backpackers arrived. A few minutes before 8 AM, the first ranger showed up. We were the first (and only) ones in line for permits. Even so, it was a relief to hold the paper in our hands and be on our way.
Walking down Happy Isles Loop Rd to the trailhead
The Mist Trail and John Muir Trail trailhead
Crossing the Happy Isles Bridge over the roaring Merced River in May 2019
Backpacking days can be long and uneventful, but the hiking from Yosemite Valley is full of scenic stops. The downside is the lack of solitude. The trails often overlap with very popular day hikes. We hiked to Little Yosemite Valley via the Mist Trail, a classic Yosemite hike that takes you to Vernal and Nevada Falls in just 3 miles.
The trail approaching Vernal Falls is cut into the cliffside and slick from the waterfall’s spray during peak flow (usually May). As we got closer, the light mist escalated to something more like a heavy rain. Soon we were being slammed by torrents of water and sloshing through accumulated puddles on the steep stone steps.
Nearing Vernal Falls
I had to put my camera in my pack after this photo because it was pouring
We were soaked by the time we got to the overlook at the top of the falls. Lots of people stopped there to dry off and take in the views of the valley.
The guardrail along the edge of the cliff allows you to almost peer over the waterfall. The river feeding the falls was torrential and the water lapped threateningly close to the granite bank beneath our feet.
Leaving the thunderous sounds of Vernal Falls behind, the trail begins to wind through the trees. We hiked for a bit and we could already hear the next waterfall, Nevada Falls. We ditched our packs by the trail and ventured off to get closer to the spray. Some of us were determined to stay dry this time and kept our rain jackets on, while others just went shirtless. Regardless of the strategy, the constant gusts of mist re-drenched us.
The views open up on the right as the trail climbs next to Nevada Falls. One final push over a boulder staircase takes you to the Mist Trail and John Muir Trail junction, where there is an outhouse. From there it is just a short walk to the expansive Nevada Falls overlook. A footbridge spans the Merced River where you can stand and look down at the furious whitewater seconds before it tumbles over the edge.
Past Nevada Falls, the day-hiking crowds thin out. Most of the elevation gain is done and it is only about another mile until Little Yosemite Valley, our destination for the day.
Little Yosemite Valley is a large and flat developed campground shaded by trees. There is a composting toilet, communal fire rings, water access from the nearby Merced River, and bear lockers. We had an encounter with a chipmunk (it stole a Lara bar) while we were setting up camp, so make sure food is properly stored—if not for the bears, for the squirrels!
The composting toilet
The campsites are nice and flat, and covered with soft brush
This trip was my first time backpacking besides one practice run in a local state park, so it was exciting to experience the routine of camp chores for the first time. Pitch tents, set up sleeping bags, filter water, boil water, rehydrate food, eat food. With the amount of time left in the day after the short hike and the availability of fire rings, we also got to do the more idyllic camp things. Build a fire, roast marshmallows, make s’mores, cheers tiny shots of whisky, have campfire chats as night falls. (Warning: tons of self-indulgent artsy shots coming up).
Foam sleeping pads are great for naps under the trees
Setting up sleeping bags and sleeping pads
Group outing to filter water from the nearby Merced River
Pre-dinner snacking on some Limón Hot Cheetos
Using a Jetboil and trying dehydrated food for the first time
The art of building a tepee for the fire
Practicing Prusik knots on a stick we found
S’mores assembly with dare I say, a perfectly golden marshmallow
Whiskey shot cheers!
Day 2: Half Dome
We crawled out of our tents at 4:30 AM the next day. We packed just our climbing gear and headed out, 6 circles of light bobbing up and down in the dark.
The first part of the hike up from Little Yosemite Valley is forested and the elevation gain is steady. It felt endless despite our light packs that only held our climbing gear. By 7100' we started seeing snow on the sides of the trail, and in another 500 vertical feet we decided to put on microspikes.
Just before mile 3 from Little Yosemite Valley, the trail becomes wide and flat until the base of subdome. A sign reminding that permits are required beyond that point stood several feet deep in snow, marking the beginning of the switchbacking subdome staircase. The stairs were steep and brutal. We had to keep taking off and putting on our microspikes as the snow became patchier. The trees thinned and the views completely opened up. It finally felt like we were on Half Dome, walking on the exposed granite and the slanting, shingled dome coming into view.
The first glimpse of Half Dome
The flat area right before subdome
Drawing cat faces in the sand
The beginning of the switchbacking staircase
Microspikes on or off, that is the question
Done with the staircase. The views are insane and only keep getting better. Only a little more to go until the cables!
Lots of snow before the crest of subdome, but the trail is wide
Finally, the long-anticipated cables
Once we got to the cables, we put on our harnesses and tied both prusik loops on to a cable (for more info on safety gear, jump to the Trip Overview at the top). There were 2 cables so we could climb somewhat next to each other. We split up into pairs and checked each other’s knots. Most of us didn’t have climbing experience but it only took a few tries to get the hang of untying and retying the knots at every section.
The granite surface is well-worn from all the climbers Half Dome gets each year, so we really relied on upper body strength to pull ourselves up the 45-60 degree incline. Because the cables are on the ground, you also have to hold them up and they are heavy. The climbing was slow but we didn’t mind because we wanted to savor every second we had up there.
The prusik knot locks when leaned back on so we could take breaks
It was exhilarating to finally untie from the cables and step out on top. The top of Half Dome is very wide and flat. The views are unobstructed in all directions. We had to take photos at the Visor, an overhanging ledge at the summit. It’s actually not scary to stand on top of, but the way it juts out over thousands of feet of air makes it such a classic shot.
Standing on the Visor
Don’t look down? No, definitely look down!
Epic views of the snow-capped high Sierras
The best tasting watermelon is undoubtedly the watermelon you carry up Half Dome
We hiked back to Little Yosemite Valley, ate a quick lunch, and packed up camp. With our heavy backpacks on again, we headed back to the trailhead. We zoomed down the Mist Trail, opting for it over the longer John Muir Trail. If we had more time we would have taken the John Muir Trail for different views.
We got back to our car just as the sun was shining golden on Half Dome. I had Half Dome on my bucket list for years, but when I looked at it now I could think back to how it felt to stand on top. This trip made me fall in love with backpacking and I left Yosemite on the biggest backpacking high, knowing that this trip was the first of many to come.
Descending the Mist Trail
Rainbows aren’t fleeting when you’re around Vernal Falls
Thanking our knees for descending 5000' feet in one day, and gazing up at the towering Half Dome that we were standing on top of just that morning